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5 Reasons Your Skincare Routine Isn’t Working

Sometimes skin care products you’ve used happily for ages seem to suddenly stop working their magic. You find yourself having bad-face days with increasing frequency, and it’s both mysterious and frustrating. 

So, we talked to Clinical Facialist Kate Kerr, Director of Kate Kerr London, about different causes of these skin revolts and what you can do to get your face back on track.

Challenge: Winter Skin 

In colder months, Kate points out, the mix of central heating indoors and blustery winds outdoors can confuse your skin. “Dehumidified air of a heated room strips moisture from the skin leaving it feeling tight, dry and dull; it can even exacerbate sensitivity and rosacea,” says Kate. “The skin will often try to counteract this by overproducing sebum to prevent moisture evaporation. Add this to a build-up of dead skin cells and you have increased risk of acne.”  

Skin Solution: “To counteract dryness, turn the temperature down a few notches and put on a jumper instead,” suggests Kate. “Wash with a gentle exfoliating cleanser to prevent the build up of dead skin cells, to enhance product penetration, and to help the skin look brighter. Apply a Hyaluronic Acid-based serum, as this holds 1000 times its own weight in water and will help counteract water loss, and drink plenty of water.”

Challenge: Being Twenty-something

For many women, this is a wonderful time for skin. “Up to age 28 we’re in our skincare prime and our skin is at its best,” says Kate. So if your skin is struggling, you may have too much of a good thing.

Skin Solution: Focus on enhancing the healthy functioning of skin cells by using antioxidants and SPFs, and go easy on the moisturisers. “Moisturiser on our skin’s surface sends a signal down to its water reservoirs to halt production. This makes skin sluggish and lacking in moisture, so we reach for more moisturiser, thus exacerbating the problem.”

Challenge: Being in Our 30s and 40s

Around age 28 we see a decline in collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid production. “Collagen gives skin its strength, elastin its stretchiness and hyaluronic acid its hydration and plumpness,” says Kate. “If we don’t use products to kickstart production, we’ll see the formation of fine lines and wrinkles, increased dehydration, loss of volume and sagging.” 

What else? Glands become less effective at flushing toxins, resulting in puffiness, particularly around the eyes, according to Kate. Also, “tendons lengthen, muscles drop, and fat pads shrink, all leading to skin sagging and lines. Skin cell turnover slows, causing the skin to absorb light, rather than reflect it, making the skin look dull.”

Skin Solution: Bring on the products. “The good news is we can increase the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid,” says Kate. “Adding a Retinol or Vitamin A product to your regime will stimulate the skin to produce more of these structural components, as will treatments like micro-needling.”

And clean your face. “It’s more important than ever to exfoliate dead skin cells. Use an exfoliating cleanser two or three times a week to encourage a glowing complexion. Melanocytes can also become more erratic and pigmentation can be obvious, so use a Vitamin C serum and SPF50 everyday.”

Challenge: Menopause

The hormonal shift can lead to drier skin, as well as a significant drop in collagen and elastin. “As women experience lower levels of oestrogen, the skin’s fat deposits — 

which are what gives skin its plump, youthful appearance — are affected, leading to sagging, fine lines and wrinkles.”

Skin Solution: All those products you started toying with in your 30s and 40s? Time to get serious about using them daily. 

Challenge: You Don’t Even Know!

After some research, you’ve started using new high-quality, credible products. And yet, your skin feels drier than ever. Or it’s so oily it shines. Or you’re getting red patches that sting plus a band of zits across your forehead. 

Skin Solution: Check your formulas and read your instructions closely. Did you buy the sensitive-skin formula when you actually have combination skin? Are you accidentally using a weekly exfoliant every night?

If your skin stops responding to good products the way you wish it would, just remember: there is a reason and — even better — there’s often a relatively simple solution. 

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Article from Skin Health Magazine

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